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How long does it take for an item to become a modern collector’s item? The Supreme x Louis Vuitton capsule collection launched in 2017 has proven to be as popular as ever, with resale prices reaching up to three times the retail price. Now, the story of Dior x Air Jordan is being written to become the next classic.
First launched in 2020, the Dior x Jordan collaboration is arguably the hottest sneaker collaboration in recent years. First unveiled at Dior’s fall 2020 show in Miami, the “Air Dior” collection blends streetwear culture and high fashion, first teased by rapper Travis Scott and various online leak accounts. With only 13,000 pairs available (5,000 of which are reserved for VIP customers), expectations were extremely high.
Five million users rushed to register to get their hands on the coveted sneakers, which were first-come, first-served. In China, Dior hosted an online experience event on its official WeChat account. As expected, many people left empty-handed, and resale prices skyrocketed: According to an expert at StockX, the Dior x Air Jordan 1 High was the most expensive shoe on the secondary market in 2020, selling for $130 million. Although the price has since dropped to an average of $7,000 a pair, it is still more than three times the original price of $2,200 for the high-top version.
According to rumors, Dior and Jordan will once again join hands to launch three popular new color schemes, and a new round of hype has begun. So, what makes this collaboration so iconic and collectible in China and around the world?
01 Powerful combination
When there are two kings on the court, it is hard to lose.
In addition to being the world’s most well-known luxury brand, Dior is also a leader in localization in China. Since 2015, the 75-year-old French brand has experimented with various digital strategies in China, and in the process, has achieved several firsts in the luxury industry: the first to promote on WeChat Moments; the first to live stream on WeChat; and the first to create official accounts on Douban and Bilibili. It’s no surprise, then, that Dior ranked among the top ten most valuable luxury brands in 2020 and was named the second most popular luxury brand among Chinese consumers in 2021.
Meanwhile, Jordan has been hailed as the catalyst for modern sneaker culture. That influence has also spread quickly to China, where it has invested heavily since 1997—popularizing basketball, partnering with local athletes, and opening its largest Jordan store in Chengdu. In fact, when Nike’s sales plummeted in fiscal 2020 due to the pandemic, Jordan still shined, with revenue in China growing by more than 50% to nearly $1 billion.
Strong partnerships make all the difference. “For Dior, this partnership allows it to remain competitive in a new fashion world obsessed with streetwear and continue to attract more young customers,” explained Hanlin Ho, managing partner of Hylink Digital Solutions USA. “For Jordan, this partnership makes the already tight sneakers even harder to find.”
02 Craftsmanship and exclusivity
While brand name can bring a sensational effect, a joint venture that can go down in history must have a product that lives up to expectations. Combining the best of both brands, the “Air Dior” sneakers are based on the 1985 Jordan 1, a famous sneaker that sold for $560,000 at a Sotheby’s auction in 2020, and come in Dior’s signature grey and white colorway. Standout features include a Dior print inside the Swoosh, “AIR DIOR” on the Jumpman Wings, and a transparent sole for a fresh, timeless feel.
However, these shoes are extremely hard to come by. For one thing, there are only a few thousand pairs available, each individually numbered, priced at $2,200 for the high-top and $2,000 for the low-top. Due to the scarcity of quantities, Dior has set up a lottery system where interested buyers can write down their desired size, style, and pickup location, and only then can the winning buyer pay and eventually get the popular shoe.
Hunger marketing tactics can stimulate consumer demand for products, says Adam Knight, co-founder of cross-cultural agency TONG. Beyond that, brands have tapped into Generation Z’s desire to be different. “Maintaining a false sense of uniqueness or exclusivity compared to peers has always been key to the appeal of foreign brands in China. Gone are the days when you could be content with just a classic Chanel or LV bag.”
03 Favored by Chinese fans
Nike understood early on that the mass market for sneakers was inextricably linked to the rise of basketball. As a result, in the 1990s, Terry Rhoads, former director of sports marketing for Nike China, even donated equipment to schools in Shanghai and organized the city’s first high school basketball league. At the same time, the NBA reached an agreement with CCTV for the broadcasting rights of its games, cementing the popular American sport’s place in local culture. Today, there are more than 625 million basketball fans in China, and the NBA China operation is worth $5 billion.
As basketball has flourished, sneaker culture has also soared. As the most favored brand by athletes in history, some Air Jordan shoes are sold in China for up to 6,600% of their original price. China’s sneaker market is expected to reach $10 billion by 2025, driven by local marketplaces like Dewu. When the Dior x Air Jordan collection was released, the platform had an average of 40 million monthly active users.
“Basketball has always resonated with the Chinese people,” He Hanlin told Jing Daily. “Strong star power and American culture, as well as a high respect for hard work and dedication, have sustained the Chinese love of basketball and made Air Jordan sneakers a status symbol for trendy people. Therefore, Air Jordan not only represents people’s worship of the sport of basketball, but also the embodiment of the star power, personal style and charm of the players.”
04 Leverage celebrity power
Of course, this collaboration also requires the endorsement of major celebrities. Big-name celebrities such as Daniel Arsham, Ashanti and Kylie Jenner were the first to get the shoes, and they posted about them on social media before the official release. In China, Air Dior also received support from Chinese brand ambassador Wang Junkai, who personally performed the entire capsule collection in a video that received more than 16 million views. E-sports athletes Yu Wenbo, Wang Sicong, Jay Chou and Edison Chen also wore the shoes, further stimulating the public’s desire to buy.
According to Jing Daily’s latest report, it’s the KOLs, not the brands’ own social media accounts, that are driving the movement. Knight agrees: “KOLs shouldn’t be seen as an opportunity to increase brand impressions, but they can actually reach a certain group in an authentic way,” he says. “This celebrity-driven approach is a key factor in many successful Gen Z-focused campaigns.” At the crossroads of high fashion and sneaker culture, the Dior x Air Jordan sneaker has all the characteristics of a successful collaboration.
